Suginoi Palace is not just an onsen; it's a vast resort complex perched on a hill overlooking Beppu, offering a unique blend of traditional Japanese hot spring culture and modern entertainment. Its main draw is the multi-tiered Tanayu outdoor onsen, providing stunning panoramic views of the city and Beppu Bay, especially at sunrise or night. Beyond the traditional, gender-separated onsen, the resort features the Aqua Garden, a mixed-gender pool area where swimsuits are required, complete with a floating station, laser light shows, and a saltwater relaxation chamber, making it an ideal destination for families and couples.
Visitors frequently rave about the magnificent views from the Tanayu onsen, describing it as one of the best onsen experiences in Japan. The Aqua Garden's laser light shows are often highlighted as a unique and magical experience, particularly enjoyable in the evening. Many reviewers appreciate the variety of facilities, including shops, restaurants, and even bowling, suggesting that the resort offers enough to keep guests entertained for several hours. The option to enjoy both traditional onsen and mixed-gender pools is a significant plus for those uncomfortable with nudity or visiting with family.
To make the most of your visit, allocate at least 2-3 hours, or even a half-day, to fully experience the different pools and amenities. Weekdays are generally less crowded than weekends, offering a more tranquil experience. If you're staying at the hotel, consider booking a room in the newer Hanakan block for a more luxurious stay. For non-guests, admission includes towels. Remember to bring your swimsuit for the Aqua Garden. While the resort offers numerous dining options, some visitors note they can be a bit expensive, so consider dining elsewhere if on a budget.
Suginoi Palace is conveniently accessible via a free shuttle service from the West Exit of Beppu Station. These purple minivans run frequently, typically every 15-30 minutes, and the journey takes about 7-15 minutes depending on traffic. When taking the shuttle, ensure you specify 'Palace part' as the resort is very large. Taxis are also an option, but the shuttle is reliable and free. The resort's location on a hill means it's not easily walkable from the station, making the shuttle essential.
A common complaint, particularly from those expecting a purely traditional onsen, is the resort's large, theme-park-like atmosphere, which can feel overwhelming or crowded, especially on weekends. Some visitors also mention that the indoor water park, Aqua Beat, has closed, which can be disappointing if you're expecting it. To mitigate crowds, visit during off-peak hours or weekdays. If you prefer a more serene and traditional onsen, focus on the Tanayu area and be prepared for the resort's extensive scale.
