The Hydrangea Train, or Ajisai Densha, is the Hakone Tozan Railway's special moniker during the mid-June to July period when thousands of hydrangea plants bloom along its tracks. This picturesque route, connecting Odawara and Gōra stations, offers a unique way to experience Japan's rainy season (tsuyu) with vibrant displays of native and non-native hydrangea varieties, from lacecaps to mopheads, their colors determined by soil acidity.
Visitors consistently praise the stunning natural beauty and the unique experience of seeing the flowers so close to the train. Many reviewers highlight the thoughtful design, where the train often slows down or even stops at prime viewing spots, allowing passengers ample time for photos and appreciation. The cooler temperatures at higher altitudes prolong the bloom, ensuring a beautiful display even into mid-summer. However, some visitors note that the train can get very crowded during peak season, which can detract from the experience, especially for those seeking a quiet, contemplative journey.
To make the most of your trip, consider visiting on a weekday or early in the morning to avoid the largest crowds. Bring a good camera to capture the vibrant colors, and wear comfortable shoes if you plan to explore any stations along the way. A Hakone Free Pass is highly recommended as it covers unlimited rides on the Hakone Tozan Railway and Cable Car, as well as other local transport options, offering significant savings if you plan to explore the wider Hakone area. The best viewing stretch is often cited as the 16-kilometer section between Hakone Yumoto and Sōunzan Station.
The Hakone Tozan Railway is easily accessible. From Odawara Station, you can board the train directly. Odawara Station is a major hub, reachable by Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo (about 35 minutes) or by local JR lines. The Hakone Free Pass, available for purchase at major stations like Odawara, Shinjuku, and Hakone-Yumoto, simplifies travel within the region. The train journey itself is part of the experience, winding through tunnels and over bridges, with the hydrangeas providing a continuous natural spectacle.
The main complaint is the overcrowding during peak bloom. To mitigate this, try to visit during off-peak hours or days. While the train is charming, some visitors find the journey a bit slow, so manage your expectations regarding travel time. Also, be prepared for potentially rainy weather, as the hydrangeas thrive in the tsuyu season.